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Named after its purpose of covering vulgarity of an exposed waistline, a matching waistcoat prevents the visual bisection of your body by providing an uninterrupted fabric line from your ankles all the way up to your neck. The waistcoat also provides an additional layer of concealment that is easier to draw from than a tucked shirt.
The amount of padding, shoulder canvas and sleevehead style can all be balanced against each other. Strong padding enhances the presence of the shoulders and is useful for balancing sloped shoulders. Soft padding offers a subtler, more relaxed line, while unpadded shoulders are recommended for square shoulders or a natural, unimposing look. Canvassed shoulders create a straighter, cleaner line. A roped sleevehead is a more formal British look and a spalla camicia or ‘shirt shoulder’ comes from casual everyday tailoring in Napoli, Italy.
The curved line of the barchetta pocket creates muscularity in the chest and is suggested for slim figures. The patch pocket is a more casual look often associated with academia.
Flap pockets are the most versatile, with slanted or curved flaps creating a sense of depth useful for those with slim figures or narrow hip-waist ratios. Jetted pockets 'suppress' the waist and are often seen on tuxedos and formalwear. Patch pockets are more casual and suitable for sportcoats.
Traditionally used for carrying opera tickets but useful for creating visual interested and disrupting negative space for those with large or long torsos. Also useful for camouflaging printing for those who carry at 3 o'clock.
Unfinished, surgeon and cocktail cuffs are designed to be 'working', whereas finished and plain cuffs are non-functional.Unfinished cuffs are intended for a local tailor to later furnish the buttons after further deliberation.
Cuff button quantity and spacing has a strong effect on perceived arm length. If there are too many buttons and they are spaced high up the sleeve, the arm will appear shorter.
Double vents are significantly more popular than a single centre vent because. However, those carrying gear at their 4 or 7 o'clock may prefer the centre vent. Tuxedos and formalwear often have no vent.
The cutaway open quarters were originally conceived to make horse riding easier. Opern quarters are better suited for higher rise trousers so no shirt can be seen under the buttoning point. Straight quarters are usually seen only on double breasted jackets.
We use ventilated powermesh to connect the sleeves, adding a large range of mobility to the arms and shoulders. With the Action Back, an operator can deploy into an isosceles shooting stance or tie shoelaces with no felt resistance.
The quickdraw button allows the wearer to button or unbutton their suit as per normal, but quickly open their jacket one-handed with simple gross motor movement if necessary.
Our 3rd Gen Quickdraw Button design incorporates a hidden placket inside the jacket canvas which houses a strong neodymium magnet. This allows for a strong, direct magnetic connection to a shanked to a traditional horn button.
A row of three pockets is sewn into the lining at the bottom of the jacket. A weight such as a challenge coin or stone can be dropped in them to ensure the jacket sweeps clear of the holster during the drawstroke. We use three pockets so that the operator can more precisely calibrate their preferred draw.
Sewn from the shoulder seam all the way down to the cuff, cut-resistant sleeves are a layer of breathable Kevlar/UHMWPE knit between the lining of the sleeves which mitigate potential incidental damage when dealing with edge weapons or sharp objects. An accent of visible Superfabric is added under the cuff buttons but can be removed when the suit is requested to be ‘sterile’.
Loop Velcro is sewn behind the lapel and collar allowing for patches and nametape to be displayed when the collar is flipped.
Custom-cut patches can include SOLAS honeycomb reflective, infrared reflective and glow-in-the-dark backings.
The Velcro Chest Panel is sewn into the chest pocket so that it can be pulled out to display any patches or nametapes.
A patch of ‘hexa’ Superfabric is added to the interior liner to protect it from tears and abrasion as well as mitigate printing.
A selection of jacket and trouser pockets can be individually lined to interfere with wireless electronic signals. This shielding interferes with RFID skimming and duplicating door access cards, payments cards, e-passports, etc. To further optimize interference, apply the RFID Shield lining to a zippered pocket that can be sealed.
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